Argentina

Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays

We love going to botanical gardens. Whenever we travel to a city that has a botanical garden, we always make time to visit it. The Botanical Garden in Buenos Aires is very convenient, right across the street from our apartment! We spent time wandering around, looking at the plants, and enjoying the shade.

The entrance to the botanical garden

The garden was designed in 1898 by Carlos Thays, the landscape architect who was responsible for many of the parks and green spaces around the city. The garden is huge and has thousands of botanical species on view.

The garden is also designated as a “rifugio climatico,” a climate refuge and a shady place where people can go hang out in the summer.

Entrance is free, and people take advantage of this amenity. There were lots of visitors this afternoon – people chatting with a friend, reading a book, listening to music, strolling around, or just sitting. The garden is a quiet, peaceful get-away in the middle of the city. Enjoy the photos!

Walking paths wind throughout the garden
There is an art nouveau greenhouse in the background
One of several water features
We have this fatsia in our yard in Atlanta!
Some delicate flowers
Ancient plants from dinosaur times with contemporary Buenos Aires in the background
These flowers look familiar from Atlanta
Resting in the shade
Check out the size of these leaves! This is a small house plant in the US
Flowers and berries
A little bridge
Okay, so this giant tree is a single ficus tree – typically a house plant in the US
Check out these dangling seed pods
Fat tree trunk
There are lots of benches throughout the garden where you can stop and rest
A grove of palm trees
Water lily pond
Lily pads
Water lilies
This tree was huge and interesting
A sea of plants with the visitor center in the background
More of this tropical vine with the giant leaves
The end of our wanderings
Standard
Argentina

Day 16 – Lazy Day

We had a lazy day mostly due to the weather. The heat and humidity are really quite exhausting, so we spent the morning relaxing in the apartment. For lunch, we were in the mood for a light meal. Traditional Argentine food is heavy on meat and potatoes, but there are a lot of vegetarian options these days. We found an excellent vegetarian restaurant called Puerta a few blocks away. The place was small but the food was creative and delicious.

Lunch at Puerta Cocina Vegetariana
Zucchini rolls with vegan cream cheese, roasted pears, and caper and olive cream – the orange balls are mango – in the background is hazelnut hummus
Empanadas
Avocado filled with pickled watermelon salad inside
Seared lion’s mane mushroom with corn, fennel, and green apple

Then we went down the street and got gelato.

Dulce de leche gelato with a spoon of dulce de leche sauce on top

Then we saw this, and Chad said, “Huh, that’s not how we do things in the United States.”

Let’s just lean a ladder against this wire while I make some repairs

In the afternoon, we wandered around the botanical garden. We were hoping the shade in the garden would provide a refuge from the heat, but we were still hot and sweaty. Exploring the garden did provide an interesting distraction, and we spent a couple of hours there.

We returned to the apartment at 5 pm just as it started to rain and continued to rain for the next two hours. We alternated between reading, relaxing, and watching the rain across the city. 

The rain storm gave us a nice rainbow

When the rained stopped, the temperature was much cooler, so we went back outside for a walk around the neighborhood. We don’t know if any grocery stores or restaurants will be open on Christmas day, so we picked up some food for our fridge.

This little store sells delicious prepared foods in bulk, deli meat, and cheese and also specializes in gluten-free
Bulk foods to go
More prepared foods
Wine, condiments, more bulk options

We had dinner at a restaurant across the street called Ganzo. It’s up on the second floor, so it was an interesting vantage point to watch people and cars pass by below. We started with a cocktail and then had dinner at  9 pm, the typical dinner hour in Buenos Aires. The food wasn’t that great, but it was nice to sit there for a couple of hours, enjoying each other’s company.

Ganzo restaurant upstairs
In the stairwell
The restaurant
The restaurant
The bar in the restaurant
Chad’s cocktail – I had a gin and tonic
Our bottle of red wine was $14 – the most expensive bottle on the menu was $20
My salad with pear and blue cheese was pretty good

After that, we called it a night and headed home.

Standard
Argentina

Jardin Japones

The Japanese Garden opened in 1967, and it was designed and constructed by the Japanese community in Buenos Aires as a tribute to the first visit of the Crown Prince Akihito and Princess Michiko to Argentina. 

Argentine residents pay $4,500 to enter the garden (about 3 dollars), non-residents pay $13,500

There is a small cafe on site that has typical Argentine lunch fare, and the visitor center also has a restaurant with sushi and sashimi. We didn’t eat there, but we spent a morning strolling around and enjoying the garden and the views.

View across the garden
Another view
Can you spot the bird in the water?
The garden is in the middle of the city
Interesting plants
A waterfall

There were interesting sculptures throughout the garden.

A stone sculpture
A samurai
In 2023, a storm felled some eucalyptus trees in the nearby botanical garden, and the government salvaged the tree trunks and hired artists to create sculptures for this garden

There was a small exhibit of bonsai trees.

The visitor center had an exhibit of kimonos, parasols, and musical instruments.

Exhibit room
Exhibit room

There were also examples of origami in the visitor center.

Paper cranes hanging from the ceiling
Christmas tree decorated with paper cranes
Guests could make a paper crane and write their wishes for the holiday season
And last but not least, origami Santa and reindeer
Standard
Argentina

Day 15 – More Palermo

There is so much to see and do in Palermo, we spent another day exploring our neighborhood.  We started with breakfast at a cafe down the street.

Dos medialunas y dos cortados

We took a 30-minute walk north to the Japanese Garden. I’ll give the garden its own blog post since there was so much to see there.

The Japanese Garden

On the way to the garden, we crossed Avenida del Libertador. Buenos Aires has several grand avenues, and this is one of them. It is 11 lanes wide, all going in the same direction. It was mind-boggling.  

The crosswalk at Av del Libertador
Oncoming traffic
Our view of the crosswalk on the way back from the Japanese Garden

Believe it or not, this is not the widest avenue in the city. That title goes to Avenida 9 de Julio which was modeled after the Champs-Elysees in Paris and, at 14 lanes wide, is the widest street in the world. That one takes a pedestrian two traffic cycles to cross the street, and that’s only if they don’t dilly-dally.

Walking around today, we also saw lots of dog-walkers. Portenos (people in Buenos Aires) love their dogs, and dog-walkers take the pooches out during the day when their owners are at work. This guy had 8 or 9 dogs. When he got to the crosswalk of Avenida de Libertador, he untangled all of the leashes and took pictures all around to prove that he took the dogs out, and then he crossed the street with both hands in the air so the cars knew to give him a wide berth with all of those dogs.

A dogwalker
Untangling leashes
Preparing to cross the street

We stopped at a pharmacy to get some cold medicine for Chad. I only know very basic Spanish, so I used google translate on my phone and typed, “My husband has a cold. Do you have decongestant?” and showed it to the pharmacist. The pharmacist handed some medicine to me and used his own phone to translate and showed me, “Take this every 4 to 5 hours.” Thanks, Technology!

Afterwards, lunch was at a little bistro called Kajue. 

Chad had a salad
I ordered the menu del dia which started with roasted potatoes with a sauce of mayo, dill, and cucumber – delicious!
My main course – there was a large influx of Italian immigrants to Argentina in the early 20th century, so pasta and pizza are part of the culture

After lunch, we strolled around some more and found the hipster part of the neighborhood with lots of stylish shops. Chad pointed out that this area was for “hipsters with money.” Things seemed expensive in these shops.

Cute shopping area
Interesting streetscape
Hipster shop
Street art

At this point, we were hot, tired, and sweaty, so we got some gelato and then headed home to rest. We knew it would be summer here, but we didn’t really think about how exhausting the weather would be. When it’s 85 degrees and 85% humidity in Atlanta, it doesn’t seem bad, but we’re not usually walking around for hours in that weather. We’re at the point here where we want to take multiple showers a day.

So after resting, we thought, let’s go walk around in the heat some more. We explored another part of the neighborhood and stopped for a cocktail at Tres Monos. This place has been voted the best bar in Latin America and one of the 50 best bars in the world, and the cocktails were very interesting.

Tres Monos sidewalk seating – urban aesthetic vibe
Chad’s cocktail was a riff on a Negroni with flowers in it, mine was sweet and bitter and sour and I had to shake it like a bartender and then drink it through a metal straw from this martini shaker

On the way back to our apartment, we popped into a little neighborhood shop to buy a bottle of wine. We left the shop with wine, a very interesting cheese, olives, salami, and a local beer. Chad is so good at asking for local recommendations and a taste of this and a taste of that, and then we have a full grocery bag of local treats. And then we stopped into a panaderia to get some bread, and this panaderia also had a lot of delicious pastries and cakes.

A little neighborhood shop
The cheese selection in this little shop
Chad spotted this green cheese in the cooler – we tasted it and it was delicious so we bought it
The meat cooler with salami and ham and other things
Pastries at the panaderia
Desserts at the panaderia

Dinner was a combination of restaurant leftovers and miscellaneous groceries as we watched the evening turn into night over the botanical gardens.

Early sunset over the botanical gardens
Night view over the botanical gardens
Standard
Argentina

Day 14 – Palermo Neighborhood

Buenos Aires has been on our list of places to visit for years. Our primary purpose of this trip was the Antarctica cruise, but we figured, as long as we’re traveling all the way to the southern end of the globe, we might as well take advantage and spend a week in Buenos Aires. I can already tell that one week is not enough time, a month would be better, but we’ll certainly enjoy it while we’re here.

Our apartment is in the Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires. The metro area of Buenos Aires has 17 million people, and Palermo is the most populated neighborhood. It is just northwest of the historic city center. It is a very hip neighborhood with lots of shops, boutiques, restaurants, and nightlife. 

Palermo is a stately old neighborhood with some beautiful buildings from the 19th century. Our building, however, is only a couple of years old.

Our high-rise apartment building – our square balcony is the one just above the trees, we are on floor 9 out of 13, the angled balconies are the building next door
We’ve seen a lot of residential buildings with virtual security guards – it seems that a guard sits remotely and monitors the lobbies of several buildings at once – our remote guy is on the TV right next to the physical security desk
We have a bright and airy studio apartment
Our sitting area
Our little kitchen
Our bathroom has a bidet

Palermo has several huge gardens and parks, and our apartment is right across the street from the Botanical Garden. Just beyond the Botanical Garden is a series of other gardens that stretch to the river’s edge.

View from our balcony
Looking the other direction

We spent the day exploring the neighborhood with no particular destination in mind. We found lots of cafes, restaurants, gelato shops, little grocery stores, and other shops with everything from shoes to clothes to toys to gifts and more.  This is a very vibrant neighborhood.

Typical local breakfast, coffee and medialuna pastry
A little produce store
Restaurant across the street from our apartment

While this is a very stately old-world kind of neighborhood, most of the buildings are 20th century. Every once in a while you can spot one from the late 1800s when the city built rich, opulent houses and other structures.

An older building
Another 19th century building
An interesting house
Another interesting house
An older historic building nestled next to new high-rises

We had a superb lunch at a small restaurant with lots of character. We each ordered a beef dish and shared a salad. Argentina is known for its beef, and this meal did not disappoint. Yum!

Charming lunch spot called Lo De Bebe
Lionel Messi is everywhere – here he is right next to my face while I was eating lunch
Bread service, chimichurri and criolla sauces, and water in a can
Milanesa napoletana – beef cutlet with tomato and cheese – I could only eat half of this
Chad’s steak with cheese and onions on top
Milanesa, bread, and salad for two
Chad fake sleeping after eating too much

In the evening, we explored another area of the neighborhood and stopped for a cocktail and some people watching. There is no shortage of people walking their dogs, and there is a surprising number of dachshunds. So many wiener dogs, everywhere.

This little doggy in the window watching the world go by
This doggy came to happy hour

At some point, Chad realized that it was the solstice and, since we’re in the southern hemisphere, we got to experience our second summer solstice of 2025. We had two longest days of the year! 

After the cold and dry climate of Antarctica, we’re enjoying the heat and humidity of summer in Argentina. The weather is great, perfect for walking around and exploring or just for sitting and watching people go by.

Standard
Antarctica, Argentina

Day 13 – Back to Buenos Aires

After spending one last night on the boat in the port of Ushuaia, we woke up and vacated our stateroom at 7:30 am. We took a 20-minute shuttle bus ride to the airport to catch our charter flight. 

Imagine a small local airport that has only 6 gates, and then a series of shuttle buses drops off 200+ people at the front door all at the same time. Needless to say, the line for security was insanely long. The airport is relatively new, and it is a beautiful design, all heavy timber construction.

All of these people were on our cruise, now waiting for the charter flight back to Buenos Aires

There were several Viking crew members that were headed home for the holidays, and they were at the gate with us. They were the last ones to board the plane and their seats were in the very back, and as they walked through the plane to their seats, all of us Viking guests gave them a long round of applause. It was well deserved. All of the crew were really amazing on this voyage.

The flight was annoying because we were tired and hungry. The food and drink service was minimal, and there was enough turbulence that we were cranky when we landed. Plus, Chad had developed a terrible head cold the last two days on the ship, so he was feeling really miserable and dealing with lots of congestion and pressure from the altitude.

We landed at 2 pm and went to baggage claim. As the bags came around, Chad grabbed his backpack, but mine never showed up. Apparently, only half of the passenger bags made it onto the plane. Viking didn’t know where the bags were. The airline didn’t know where the bags were. Nobody knew when the bags would arrive.

The second charter plane arrived late that afternoon, and some of the missing luggage (but not all) was on that plane. Luckily, my backpack was on that flight, and after standing around the airport for 4-1/2 hours, I finally had my bag. But you can imagine the epic amounts of crankiness at this point.

We hopped into a taxi to go to our AirBnB, and the 25-minute ride took over an hour. In the end, we made it into our apartment just before 8 pm and had to rest and decompress for a bit.

I knew that we needed to get to a grocery store to get a few things like bottled water. (Visitors aren’t supposed to drink the tap water here because our bodies aren’t used to the local water.) There is a huge supermarket a couple of blocks away, so we got water, a bottle of wine, and some prepared foods for dinner. We didn’t have the energy for a restaurant meal.

What was interesting, is that we were at the store at 9 pm on a Saturday night, and it was packed! People generally eat the evening meal here at 9 pm or later, so maybe everyone was picking up some stuff for dinner.

We came back to our little apartment, had some food, and went to bed. After a long day, we were wiped out and ready to get some rest and wake up and start anew in the morning.

Standard
Antarctica

Antarctica Photo Dump

During our voyage, Viking had a staff photographer, and there were several crew members that took excellent photos. They shared their photos with the passengers which was great, because they were able to capture scenes that I didn’t capture. These photos were excellent, so I want to share them.

Before that, though, here’s a map of our voyage and the places we visited so you can see where we traveled.

And now, the crew photos. First up, views of landscape and the ship:

Clouds
More clouds
More clouds
Sunset
More sunset
This looks like waterfalls but it is snowfalls
All of the icebergs were amazing and unique – I’m considering a new career as an iceberg-ologist
Up to 90% of an iceberg’s volume is underwater

Some photos of excursion days:

A zodiac leaving the ship
Chad and I are on this little zodiac in the middle of the Antarctic ocean
View from a zodiac
Port Lockroy
Hiking on land

Submarine photos:

Sponges and sun star starfish
A close-up of sponges
Lots to see here
Lots of things at the ocean floor
One group saw a large jelly
A close-up of the jelly

And up in the air, sea birds:

I think this is a petrel
This bird is on a mission
These are blue-eyed corcorans

And now for the orcas:

This group swam straight towards the ship at full speed

Adorable Weddell seals:

Seal resting on a iceberg
Seal resting on a rock
Seal resting on snow – they do a lot of resting

And the adorable puppy-like faces of seals:

This seal is either yawning or very annoyed

And now, more cute penguins:

Gentoo penguins
Gentoo penguins
Penguin crossing
Hello!
Nuzzling the two baby chicks
Two Gentoo penguins calling into the air
Chinstrap penguins
Chinstrap penguin
Penguin pals – these might be mates
Going for a swim
Penguins catching an iceberg ride

And last but not least, the majestic humpback whales:

A whale head
This whale has twisted and put its side fin up in the air
Feeding on krill
Feeding
Under the chin there are these pink pleats than expand when the whale scoops up a mouthful of water and krill
Another head
Two whale mouths
A whale tail
Another tail
One last glimpse – each whale tail has unique markings, similar to how humans have unique fingerprints

Until next time:

Standard
Antarctica

Day 12 – Cape Horn

We awoke this morning to see land. It was such a welcome sight, because it meant that the Drake Passage was behind us. We had sailed to the western side of South America and then spent the day sailing around Cape Horn to arrive at Ushuaia at 7 pm. I spent some time out on the bow watching the landscape go by. There were several birds around us and even some dolphins.

We had dinner at one of the fancy restaurants and then packed our bags.

We had to put our checked luggage outside our stateroom door by 10 pm. Porters came around in the night to collect the luggage. Then they transported it to the airport and loaded it on the plane. We’ll next see our baggage when we land in Buenos Aires. In the meantime, enjoy these photos of Cape Horn.

Standard
Antarctica

Day 11 – Crossing the Drake Passage

As we cross the passage for the second time, I’m reminded that I didn’t enjoy it the first time. Even though I don’t get motion sickness, I still get weary of the boat rolling around. Sometimes it pitches from front to back. Sometimes it rolls side to side. Sometimes it does both.

This bar was closed during the day so saran wrap was keeping the glasses from falling over as the ship rolled around

In addition to giving me a headache, all of the movement makes it difficult to walk around. You weave back and forth and sometimes stumble as the ship makes a sudden twist. I have to hold onto a railing or touch the wall to keep my balance.

And this is why the corridors have railings

The captain gave a lecture this morning about the technical and operational aspects of the ship. We learned that the ship has three stabilization methods, and they are all currently deployed as we cross the passage.

The ship has fins that extend on either side to help stabilize
There is water ballast in the bottom of the ship that can counteract the rolling back and forth
There is additional water ballast to help with the rolling motion

Even with all of the stabilization technology and seasick meds and the Drake Lake, it’s still tiring. I can’t imagine what it would have been like on an old sailing ship a hundred years ago. Yuck.

We have seen a lot of sea birds on this time across, however. I’ve seen a few albatross which is pretty cool. It makes me think of Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner which I read in 12th grade. We also seen other types of birds, petrels and others. I should go back to look at the bird replicas to figure out their names, but I just don’t feel like walking downstairs at the moment.

A couple of sea birds

One of the lines in Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner is “Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink.” In our case, the ship has a reserve of potable water, and it can make more water by desalination of sea water. I learned that during the captain’s lecture. How cool!

Our passage will take 36 hours. This is pretty good time, as I’ve read that it can take up to 48 hours if the sea is rough.

We’ve got this view for 36 hours

Tomorrow morning around 8 am, we’ll sight land on Cape Horn. We’ll then sail around the cape and arrive at Ushuaia at 8 pm, just in time for a final dinner reservation at one of the fancy restaurants on the boat. We’ll sleep on the boat and then head to the airport in the morning for the flight back to Buenos Aires. Most if not all of the guests will then head home, but we’ll be staying in Buenos Aires for another week so we can explore the city.

Standard
Antarctica

Excursion Outtakes

For every day that we were in Antarctica, there were excursions away from the ship – hikes on shore, zodiac cruises, special ops boat cruises, kayak paddling trips, submarine dives, and science zodiac cruises to gather info for the science labs. Here are some behind-the-scenes notes.

When we arrived at our venue for the day, the guides would go out an hour early in zodiacs, the special ops, and the dive boat to look around the area for things to see. The land guides would go on land to strike out our hiking paths.

Zodiacs ready to scout the area for the best tours of the day
Guides scouting a harbor
The dive support boat looking for a good submarine spot
Special ops and kayak guide scouting the area

We had to suit up for each excursion for cold and wet weather. In this photo I’m wearing rubber-and-neoprene boots, double socks, long underwear leggings, fleece-lined pants, waterproof overpants, long underwear top, base layer top, fleece pullover, puffy jacket, red waterproof expedition jacket, glove liners, waterproof gloves, neck gator, fleece-line hat, and sometimes sunglasses. The black life jacket goes on last. It takes a good 20 minutes to put on all of this gear.

So many layers of gear
The kayak trip required a bright green dry suit and a red life jacket due to a an increased risk of falling in the water

Most trips from the ship departed from the hanger level, and we had to stand in line to wait for our turn on a boat.

Waiting in the hanger for a boat

On the land excursions, we saw consistent things for each visit. Hiking poles, tons of penguins, orange poles to mark the trail, and snow steps on steep trails.

Hiking poles at a beach landing where the trail begins
We saw so many penguins every day
Orange poles mark the limits of the walking trails
Snow steps carved into the trail on steeper slopes

On our trips, we had other guests beside us who were in a lot of our photos. It was hard to avoid other tourists.

On a zodiac cruise, trying to get a photo of penguins
There was a traffic jam at the top to look at the penguins
Guides returning from supervising a land hike

There are strict protocols for biosecurity to prevent humans from tracking pollution and pathogens onto the land. All of our gear had to be scrutinized before we could go on land to make sure we weren’t going to harm the Antarctic environment.

Then, after taking an excursion, when we arrived back at the ship we had to be powerwashed and our boots had to be disinfected as we walked through a foot bath. It was quite the production.

Avian flu has arrived in Antarctica, and while it is harming the penguins, it is particularly devastating to the elephant seal population. This is why we have to take so many precautions when we come into contact with the natural environment.

The ship loaned us most of our outerwear. This morning, we had to put our boots out in the hallway for collection. The staff had to clean them and get them ready for guests on a future cruise. Even though the boots had been powerwashed on our feet, they are now investigated with magnifying glasses and little picks to remove debris and make sure the boots are totally clean for the next cruise.

Boots waiting for collection
Staff cleaning the boots in the hanger

All of this effort was worth it, though, to be able to explore the White Continent and have the experience of a lifetime.

Chad on a hike
Saw this with my own two eyes

We’ve been doing our best to protect all of Antarctica including these little guys:

Penguin greetings!
Standard